Rodolpho Paglialunga made his Vionnet debut at Resort with a collection that didn't quite capture the magical lightness of the legendary couturier's creations. In between, he must've studied the archives, because this was a much more focused production, one that owed a debt to Madame V.'s ideas about draping but looked completely modern and effortless.
"I love to create clothes with fabric, no sketches," Paglialunga explained. Essentially, he took squares and rectangles of charmeuse and chiffon and wrapped them around the body, gathering them at the shoulder and around the waist with a jeweled belt and leaving the extra material to curl around the neck or float down the torso. The resulting silk dresses came in gorgeous color-blocks (white, black, and lilac; yellow, purple, and fuchsia) or in a vibrant floral scarf print, sometimes densely beaded, as well as in chiffons embroidered in matte and shiny sequins. Shirts created in the same manner were paired with slouchy knee-length shorts or slinky pants.
The collection was presented on mannequins, but here's hoping that Paglialunga and Vionnet's owner Matteo Marzotto decide on a runway next season. These are the kind of clothes you want to see in motion.
- Fashion Shows
- People + Parties
- Trends + Shopping