Most designers would prefer not to have their collections reduced to a single word, but Vivienne Tam, who took a sole Chinese character as her leitmotif last season, was all about butterflies for Spring. As insects go, they're arguably the prettiest, but the majority of women might not want to be seen with one—oversize and covered in sequins—riding on their lapel. Butterflies, in prints (both abstract and figurative) and appliqués, were to be seen on most everything in the show.

The mood was very seventies. Suede and chiffon were the fabrics of choice, and the models were accessorized with giant, fringed hobo bags (when they weren't carrying mini laptops—the fruit of Tam's newest collaboration with HP). There were a few nice chiffon tops and long, beautiful dresses in lovely warm tones or acid hues, but, come spring, we expect we'll have an urge to emerge from our cocoons to wear something less clichéd.