Yohji Yamamoto
PARIS, October 2, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
The list of invitees to Yohji Yamamoto's Marais headquarters was much shorter than usual. Is he scaling back? Many would guess yes, judging by the relatively risk-free, commerce-friendly collection he sent out. Safe it may have been, compared with his more typically conceptual fare, but (with a soundtrack that included "Detroit Rock City") it was also remarkably fun and upbeat—and all the more irresistible because those are such unexpected adjectives to be tossing around at a Yohji show.He opened with a fitted black shirt with a popped collar and puffed sleeves worn over a long slim skirt. Karlie Kloss' hair was teased, her long bangs partly obscuring a face painted white, with feathers pasted onto her eyebrows above bright squares of green. (OK, so maybe the hair and makeup weren't quite so tame.) From there, Yamamoto riffed a bit, showing boned single- and double-breasted jackets with (surprise!) miniskirts and long, crisp white shirtdresses unbuttoned over black shorts or skinny pants. There were a few side trips into black leather motorcycle jackets; a couple of black suits dotted with circular cutouts; a group of pieces tattered by lasers; and, finally, an abbreviated rerun of the whole lineup, this time in calico.
No highfalutin themes to parse, no tricky constructions. That might disappoint some acolytes, but retailers will be another story entirely.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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