Y-3

NEW YORK, September 13, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
At the end of today's Y-3 show, a net dropped from the ceiling and Yohji Yamamoto—accompanied by none other than Zinedine Zidane, one of the world's most famous soccer players—came out to take a shot at a goal (manned, incidentally, by a paparazzo conscripted by Irina Lazareanu). Does that mean Yamamoto is a football fanatic? Not exactly. "Sometimes it looks to me like the supporters are like people making a war," the soft-spoken and pacific designer said. What really inspired Yamamoto's World Cup-themed collection was something more poetic, naturally: the movement of the net after a goal, which Yamamoto had taken note of in a movie.

Netting was integrated into the collection with lots of airy (and body-exposing) pieces. These worked best when worn under tailored separates, like some great suspendered pants. But the faithful really came to see the seasoned players—i.e., a good jacket and a good pant—and they weren't disappointed. The jackets came with nationalistic shield patches, and pants were often of the harem variety. The combination of structure and flow, as in look five, a blazer over a long dress, or the juxtaposition of draped jersey tunics and stiffer cotton pants, was particularly effective. The tiered jumpsuits that looked like dresses were also winners.

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