Acne
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 27, 2010
By Tim Blanks
You want a great night out to go on forever. At least that's how Acne's Jonny Johansson felt after partying at Le Tango in Paris with Christopher Lundmann and the rest of his men's design team. It made him think of the kind of summer dances he used to go to when he was growing up in the Swedish countryside, and from that came a collection that combined a seventies silhouette with the disco languor of jersey and an androgynous schoolboy element.Imagine a Junior League Studio 54 in Stockholm, and you'll get a sense of Johansson's nostalgic fun factor. Schoolboy shorts and layered T-shirts shared space with a lean double-breasted navy suit, the pants high-waisted and flared, or a pair of leather dungarees that suggested another sort of seventies club altogether. Walking through the collection, Lundmann insisted that, concise as it was, it comprised an entire summer wardrobe, from sporty day to dressed-up night (the metallic sandals were a contemporary touch). The lingering impression was that these were clothes that would equally suit Acne boys and Acne girls, and you get the feeling that's not something Johansson would be particularly upset about.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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