September 08, 2010 New York
If that sounds like a lot of lead-up before getting to the clothes, it was. Reid's insistent scene-setting can sometimes get in the way—you half expected a streetcar named Desire to pull 'round the bend—and there was a costume element to some of the looks shown here that could stand to be toned down. But no amount of set dressing can detract from the strength of the designer's individual pieces, especially, this time around, the outerwear. A coated cotton officer's coat (here a "marigny coat") was softer than its military inspiration would suggest, but no less structured. Likewise a washed leather lineman's jacket in a buttery tone of caramel. Smartly designed, smartly made: That's the sort of combo that'll get a fella noticed. No wonder Reid was named GQ's Best New Menswear Designer of the Year this year, and a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, too.