D&G
MILAN, June 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
An invitation to Le déjeuner sur l'herbe at Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's Metropol Theater arrived in a brown paper bag. The catwalk was grass; the backdrop was leafy trees; home movies of picnicking families played on the video wall. Gee, what could the theme of the D&G show possibly be? It's been an intense week for the duo, with the 20th-anniversary celebrations of their signature men's collection (never mind the months of planning), and there must have been many moments when life's simplest pleasures seemed mighty tempting indeed. Fortunately for them, they have their second line to express such feelings.The collection was a hymn not only to simple pleasures but also to simpler times. Domenico and Stefano built it on the check fabric called Vichy, from the French town known for its production of cottons. It looks like every folksy napkin or tablecloth you've ever seen, and they used it for blousons, shirts, shorts, shoes, and the trim on collars and cuffs—just about anything, in fact, that could carry a pattern. It was positively invigorating.
Then the designers riffed on an equally nostalgic motif: the tropical print. Pair a Hawaiian shirt with cotton drill shorts and you've got a look that says "out of office" more succinctly than any automatic e-mail message. That will hardly win them awards for innovation, but it goes a long way to serving a fundamental function of Spring fashion. And, as the prophet Mary Poppins once counseled, "You find the fun in that last sentence and snap! The job's a game."
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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