Dunhill
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 27, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Kim Jones' kid-in-a-candy-store reign at Dunhill continues this season with his discovery in the archives of a cigarette lighter that Picasso engraved with a portrait of his mistress Dora Maar. The house's heritage is wayward enough that you'd imagine Jones indulging his own magpie sensibility to his heart's content, and there's certainly something of that in the accessories that were visible on the catwalk. The hip flasks the models were carrying, for instance. But magpie or not, Jones once again exhibited discipline and restraint in this tightly edited show. The focus was tailoring, with the key jacket a high-closing, one-button double-breasted that tracked back to male members of the Bloomsbury group, the English bohos who set the cultural tone of the country in the early twentieth century. That may sound retro, but the jacket had shape and ease, which made it timely.The collar-and-tie formality of the show was a reflection of Jones' commitment to the resuscitation of the English gentleman. A catwalk possibly wasn't the best place to appreciate the subtlety of his detailing, particularly the shirtings. On the other hand, the handful of sleek, modern outerwear pieces he showed—especially a couple of suede jackets with piped seams—made one yearn for the days when he was reconceptualizing English sportswear. The mere fact they were even in this collection suggests that the designer is working toward a reconciliation of the needs of Dunhill and the wants of Kim Jones. When that happens, this collection will really lift off.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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