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Etro

MILAN, June 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
The original tree of life may have been the date palm, because it sustained early human societies on so many levels. Now, several millennia later, it's sustaining the Etro fashion empire, since it was the fronds of the date palm that inspired the Persian pattern that evolved into the label's signature paisley.

In the past, designer Kean Etro's celebrations of that iconic pattern have been primary-colored bursts of jubilation wrapped up in fine Italian tailoring. This season, he had the freshly laid lawn and the hot Latin beats all set to continue the party, but the color was left in the showroom. For his catwalk, Kean eased back, offering clothes that were pale, subtle, and insinuatingly sexy in a way that's new to the brand. This time around, the inevitable paisley shirts were sheer, in georgette or silk. Tone-on-tone paisley scrolled down neutral-hued jackets and pants, or was picked out in see-through lace shirts. The lightness and airiness took an earthy turn with suits and coats in tan, sage, and bone, and skins in olive green; the sun shone through in chrome yellow leathers.

To round out the organic vibe, each departing audience member was given a sapling, with the house pledging to plant all those that went unclaimed. Only fitting that Etro continues to pay tribute to that source.

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