Iceberg
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 22, 2010
By Tim Blanks
For Spring 2011, Iceberg creative director Paolo Gerani took the classic children's tale The Little Prince as his inspiration, mining that book's proto-environmentalism for a collection that touched on themes of decay and renewal. Gerani created a backdrop from an undulating wall of cardboard, like a giant abandoned filing system, that suggested the kind of repurposing you might see in the slums of Lagos or Rio. (The association was strengthened by the techno world music accompaniment of the Chemical Brothers' "Galvanize" on the soundtrack.)The designer showed knitwear that looked old, burned, and holey; T-shirts decorated with duct tape; a shearling that could have been rescued from a bin; and distressed footwear. He also worked the recycling theme in sweatshirt material reconfigured as a tailored jacket/bomber hybrid and as a blazer with a baseball jacket's sleeves. Pinstriped silk pants with an elasticated ankle felt like they'd been pajamas in a former life. Two pristine blousons in green leather, meanwhile, evoked growth and rebirth.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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