Angela Missoni compared the many layers of her new menswear collection to "layers of memories, of souvenirs." The look was built around a peasant shirt, elevated by Missoni's patchwork, stripes, or plaid into a rustic heritage piece, like an idealized memory of a more artisanal era.

But by the time that humble smock had been underlaid with a long-sleeved T-shirt in a contrasting stripe, and then layered up with a sweater in the label's signature zigzag, a jacket in a jacquard linen, and a nylon parka (the acid green one was a zinger), it was clear that something entirely different was going on. Add a voluminous pair of linen combat shorts and some tricolored deck shoes into the mix, and the result looked more like a kind of dressy, elongated grunge.

An attempt to revitalize Missoni's signature with new proportions? The designer didn't describe it that way, talking instead about bringing refinement to informal clothes and acknowledging the experimental nature of the collection. If this one literally stretched things out a little too far, you could still feel the designer testing ideas—like a new acidity in the color palette and a new lightness with patchworking—for next time. And that's what keeps Missoni vital.