"What do people need from Moschino?" head designer Bill Shapiro asked himself. "Why, a good time." The house's Spring collection gave it to them three ways: Pop, Rock, and Classic. Pop, in the Warhol sense of the word, runs in the label's veins, so there were cartoon shirts, headphones silkscreened in a Warhol style, and a Lichtenstein BAM! The Rock range featured white shirts pierced with nipple rings and an AC/DC tee reconfigured to read "AB/CD." There was a guitar print, another of drums, and a mesh biker jacket that seemed like a sensible way to keep the rock faith while staying cool in the summer.

The Classic group collected some of the label's long-running favorites: flag motifs, peace-sign graphics, navy tailoring. The colored piping on a gray jacket was a reminder that underlying the fun there's some accomplished work being done, like the trench in double-faced nylon or the jacket in a wool that felt like cotton-—the kind of trompe l'oeil effect that is quintessential Moschino.