It feels like Paul Smith has spent so long embedded in the early sixties sharp-suited mod end of the London style spectrum that this season's embrace of the rather less structured late sixties was cause for celebration. With Donovan, Hawkwind, and Led Zeppelin on the soundtrack, Sir Paul showed tie-dyed silks, star-studded pants, and a jacket in a tone-on-tone print that looked like the kind of William Morris wallpaper pattern rich hippies used to drool over.

Smith caught the mood of that moment, when androgynous boys would shop in antiques markets for old blouses or throw a vintage evening jacket over a T-shirt. He got the shabbiness right, and the colors too, especially a particular shade of maroon. A silver trench looked like a perfectly cosmic coverall. But it's hard to know what a Smith aficionado would make of such a change in direction.