September 09, 2010 New York
Alan made his name, and still makes a lot of his bottom line, on one piece of the wardrobe: the men's shirt—that's the opposite of a collection. But he's shrewdly growing into much more than a supplier of standards. For both men's and women's, the offerings here felt breezily casual, more muted and more refined than in the past. Simplicity was a strength. Having mastered the shirt, he's moving on to perfecting the pant—and the gusseted, cinched-waist mountain pant he's offering as an alternative to denim is a solid contender. For the ladies, it's a wide-leg "beach trouser" in cotton or linen. A pleated minidress in indigo cupro? Just toss it in your overnight bag and go. The feeling you took away from the whole was salt-aired and sun-bleached—and that's a sensation that sounds pretty salable, even if you're not going any farther than the next subway stop.