Why Redux? Because it began as a greatest-hits compilation. Looking, understandably enough, to make some sales and give his retailers what they wanted, Tim Hamilton dug back through the archives of his namesake collection and reissued his best and most popular pieces. These were largely on the basic end of the Hamilton wardrobe spectrum, but no less lovingly designed or irresistibly fabricated for that.

Several seasons on, Redux is a wholly separate entity from the namesake Tim Hamilton collection: a 60-odd-piece secondary line that skews slightly younger and slightly less expensive than its elder brother. But it's still a greatest-hits collection, because season after season now, it's where you'll find some of the designer's best work. Hamilton now shows his main line in Paris, but New York seems to agree with him more. The clothes he shows here are looser and freer than those he presents in Europe; these are un-basic basics. (Take a knit polo—its placket is longer than the norm, its collar thinner, its sleeve double-layered.) As a whole, today's collection recalled Hamilton's big moment in Fall 2009, when he negotiated a heavy set of references (the Wiener Werkstätte art movement of the early twentieth century) with wit and verve. No one would fault a designer for striving ever forward, but Redux suggests that mining what's been is a good way to get there. Play it again, Sam—er, Tim.