Tim Hamilton Redux
September 09, 2010 New York
Several seasons on, Redux is a wholly separate entity from the namesake Tim Hamilton collection: a 60-odd-piece secondary line that skews slightly younger and slightly less expensive than its elder brother. But it's still a greatest-hits collection, because season after season now, it's where you'll find some of the designer's best work. Hamilton now shows his main line in Paris, but New York seems to agree with him more. The clothes he shows here are looser and freer than those he presents in Europe; these are un-basic basics. (Take a knit polo—its placket is longer than the norm, its collar thinner, its sleeve double-layered.) As a whole, today's collection recalled Hamilton's big moment in Fall 2009, when he negotiated a heavy set of references (the Wiener Werkstätte art movement of the early twentieth century) with wit and verve. No one would fault a designer for striving ever forward, but Redux suggests that mining what's been is a good way to get there. Play it again, Sam—er, Tim.