Since Milan Vukmirovic took over at Trussardi 1911, he's been spending more time in his namesake city, and he's noticed guys wearing unstructured jackets, narrow pants, and rolled-up shirt sleeves, a new-wave-ish look that reminds him of the way things were 20 years ago—or even longer. He clearly identifies with that flashy self-consciousness, and is busy reconfiguring military, jean, and biker jackets with the most emblematic new-wave pattern of all, the leopard spot.

For Spring 2010, Vukmirovic printed those spots on ponyskin for a jean jacket, and heat-printed them on black leather for a tone-on-tone effect. He cut a military jacket from khaki leopard, and another jean jacket from blue leopard. There were belts, trainers, and military bags, all testifying to Trussardi's artisanship in skins. The designer also injected some of his favorite Taos touches—beaded belts, Mexican woven shirts, and an Indian blanket-patterned oversize cardigan with toggle closings.

Vukmirovic has taken a few seasons to strike the right balance between flash and substance, but his self-confidence has eventually settled into a winning optimism. Everyone could do with a little leopard in their lives at some point—little or lot, they know where to look.