It's unlikely the season will see a more optimistic interpretation of a catwalk offering than Y-3's evocation of Janis Joplin, Elvis Presley, and Jimi Hendrix as the holy trinity of rock style propping up the label's latest collection. At a pinch, the shrunken Napoleonic jacket sported by one male model could be spun as a Hendrix reference (though the waders with which it was paired radically diffused the effect), but otherwise, the somber parade of cropped and chopped clothing brought Edward Scissorhands to mind, with the sky-high hair of the male models as a further spur to that association.

Scissors had certainly been at Yohji Yamamoto's signature Edwardian tailoring, slicing away at coats and jackets on the girls, cropping tops on the boys. If a music reference had to be brought into play, it was surely goth, underscored by the witchy hair and toxic lipstick of the female models. They were all wearing black bras, like Sicilian widows, to go with their cutaway tops and flouncy or flowing bottoms. The men, on the other hand, were cursed with electric-shaded velvet corduroy items. There were some appealing pieces—like the man's shirt in cotton ticking with jacket detailing, or the woman's fitted red cardigan that floated away in tails—but Yohji's daughter Limi Feu does hard-rock attitude a lot better than this. Kudos, however, to the person whose decision it was to use Brit rockers the Duke Spirit as a live soundtrack, even if their authentically hard edge cast an unflattering light on the frequently ersatz nature of the clothes.