Y-3
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 12, 2010
By Tim Blanks
It's unlikely the season will see a more optimistic interpretation of a catwalk offering than Y-3's evocation of Janis Joplin, Elvis Presley, and Jimi Hendrix as the holy trinity of rock style propping up the label's latest collection. At a pinch, the shrunken Napoleonic jacket sported by one male model could be spun as a Hendrix reference (though the waders with which it was paired radically diffused the effect), but otherwise, the somber parade of cropped and chopped clothing brought Edward Scissorhands to mind, with the sky-high hair of the male models as a further spur to that association.Scissors had certainly been at Yohji Yamamoto's signature Edwardian tailoring, slicing away at coats and jackets on the girls, cropping tops on the boys. If a music reference had to be brought into play, it was surely goth, underscored by the witchy hair and toxic lipstick of the female models. They were all wearing black bras, like Sicilian widows, to go with their cutaway tops and flouncy or flowing bottoms. The men, on the other hand, were cursed with electric-shaded velvet corduroy items. There were some appealing pieces—like the man's shirt in cotton ticking with jacket detailing, or the woman's fitted red cardigan that floated away in tails—but Yohji's daughter Limi Feu does hard-rock attitude a lot better than this. Kudos, however, to the person whose decision it was to use Brit rockers the Duke Spirit as a live soundtrack, even if their authentically hard edge cast an unflattering light on the frequently ersatz nature of the clothes.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna
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