A.F. Vandevorst
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 30, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Being inspired by armor is familiar ground for Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst, their signature look being one that falls into the category of the urban warrior. But for Spring, the duo took that notion and evolved it into an exploration of metal in all its various forms. Perhaps unintentionally, it made for an uncharacteristically flashy look (not necessarily a bad thing). Let's call it Glamour Armor.Arickx and Vandevorst ran the gamut of metallic treatments. There was the stiff, aged silver herringbone beading, used on the cap-sleeved dress that opened the show and on more constructed pieces like a breastplate-cum-shell top. A softer fabric covered with silver-gray sequins was draped up into sexy skirts. And the glam factor really got going with gold mesh (hello, A.F. Versace!) and liquid bronze and gold lamé. The pair kept their hard-edged fighting spirit by layering all that shine with skinny sliced ribbon pants and knits crafted to look like chain mail.
Perhaps as a sign of their own little revolution, one model came out carrying an A.F. Vandevorst flag. (Was this Liberty Leading the People into shiny new territory? The Delacroix reference did appear to be echoed in the sashlike draping on dresses throughout.) Yet if the dedicated A.F. Vandevorst fan isn't up for the glitz of a gold mesh halter top or lamé harem pants, there were lovely stiff canvas coats and jackets—cut in a fabric based on painter's canvas—hand-painted in watery strokes. In all, this was a bright and fresh moment for a collection that easily turns doom-and-gloomy.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen



























