Andrew Gn
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 3, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Ossie Clark and Jean Muir were Andrew Gn's influences this season. It made for a very timely turn away from the short skirts he's done for years. In their place: flowing dresses and flaring, full trousers worn with tunics and longer belted jackets. Gn's aesthetic, of course, is more haute than hippie. It's doubtful those 1970's designers ever worked with such fine printed silks and crepes, and their clients likely never encountered the kind of private shopping experience Gn can now give his devotees in his newly opened Marais salon.The show began with a group of white dresses, tiers of ruffled dotted cotton and lace grazing the tops of the models' Christian Louboutin cork platform sandals. Next came tailoring in vibrant paisleys or linen, dressed up with eyelet not only on the bell sleeves of jackets but also on some trousers. If it sounds rich, there were actually quite a lot fewer embellishments than usual. The real stars of the show were the triple crepe dresses in rich jewel tones, from a swingy midi-length halter dress in jade to an amethyst maxi with elaborate openwork on its sleeves. From the way that his haute couture-collecting fan Tatiana Sorokko clapped at the end, it was obvious that she, for one, was looking forward to getting in touch with her boho side.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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