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Albino

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MILAN, September 25, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Like some of his more established Milanese peers, Albino D'Amato found his muse in Yves Saint Laurent this season. The first model's big, floppy straw hat was a giveaway, and the second look sealed it: a strapless onesie in spicy YSL colors, gathered in the front and with an airy, blouson shape in the back. The master's seventies glamour gave this collection a more grown-up sophistication than it had last time; Fall's baby-doll girls are now dames.

They wore strapless jumpsuits or to-the-floor trapeze dresses in bold color-blocked stripes and silk floral tapestry prints—uncomplicated pull-on-and-go vacation clothes. Or, for something more urbane: a swingy raincoat in "plastified" silk the color of cement and a linen crepe pantsuit in lavender and chartreuse with a jacket that had a vaguely Asian influence. Nineties Japanese designers were another source of inspiration, D'Amato claimed backstage. That might have an interesting effect on what he described as his growing business in Japan.

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