With his first ready-to-wear runway show, Alexis Mabille
fell victim to Tyro Excess syndrome. In a venue where the heat level was stifling, he showed way too much of way too much. His show notes listed influences that spanned Godard, Visconti, Van Buren, and Dufy
a full chaotic complement. Mabille's bailiwick is a fizzy girlishness—all crinolines and coy bows—and in small couture-sized doses, it has its appeal, but the full monty of a runway show took him to places he didn't need to go. Stretch leather leggings? A doilylike top? By that point, the easy charm of a silk parka or the dress stitched from two square cotton scarves earlier in the show had been long obscured.