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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2010
By Alison Baenen
The seventies continue to be a rich font of inspiration for designers, with Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon taking a big sip from the Me Decade for Spring. But for every reference to the past, the duo balanced it out with a nod to the future. The forward thinking was precipitated by Yoon's recent engagement, but the resulting looks were more galactic babe than blushing bride. But first, back to the seventies. The daytime looks were uniformly long and loose. The opener, an ankle-skimming button-fly acid-washed denim skirt unbuttoned past the knee, looked like printed silk and had none of denim's usual heft. Paired with a delicate tie-back racer in an abstract feather print, it set the tone for a confident and well-edited outing. Given their knack for digital prints, it's no surprise Clyburn and Yoon got in on the print-on-print mix many designers have been championing of late. They pulled off the mash-up with aplomb: A long chiffon dress with vertical pleats had fresh horizontal stripes in gray and peach down below; it made for a nice contrast with more of that feather print up top.For night, long hemlines got the ax. Pops of acid green and neon pink replaced the taupes and nudes. Organza pleats on the skirts were kitted out with whorls of shredded lace; all the short, bright, and pleated party gear had an appropriately exuberant spirit. Before the presentation, Clyburn and Yoon said they'd been encouraged to take risks this season—they're extremely young, after all—and it's safe to say the gambit paid off. It will be exciting to watch this pair continue to find their voice in seasons to come.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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