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Blumarine

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MILAN, September 25, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Think leopard spots are over? Anna Molinari would beg to differ, and judging by the retail bigwigs in her Blumarine front row, the department store chains are paying close attention to what's on the designer's mind and runway these days.

For Spring, it's animal motifs and lots of them: not just big cats, whipped up in either pastel brights or neutral browns with gold-leaf dots, but also big butterflies. These creatures prowled or flitted on everything from fitted minidresses and tunics belted over flaring pants to chemises and super-voluminous caftans—and don't forget the fringed and grommeted long-strap bags. In case that weren't wild enough, the models wore piles of colorful enamel bracelets, rings, and pendant necklaces featuring zodiac symbols and other beasts.

By comparison, off-the-shoulder ombré dresses ruched to hug every curve and leather jackets in coral or lilac elasticized at the torso for extra cling looked almost tame. And the white leather skirtsuit and coat accented with glam gold zippers, positively understated.

Over-the-top fun or overkill? In bit-size pieces, as it will probably appear on retail racks, the former. As it was shown on the runway, the latter—unless, that is, you're one insatiable man-eater.

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