Brioni
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 26, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Alessandro Dell'Acqua is the new man at Brioni. His arrival is a positive development for the brand's women's collection, which has lately been designed by a team whose collections have seemed tricked-out and overworked. Today, Dell'Acqua's minimalist approach produced some classic basics—a black pantsuit with full legs paired with a black cotton voile button-down, for example, or a white linen short-sleeve shirt that matched its cropped and tapered pants. Menswear coats were tossed over the shoulder of a long belted dress and a T-shirt and floor-length sequin skirt combo.Sharp tailoring was the focus—no surprise, given that Brioni is responsible for some of the finest-made menswear there is. But it wasn't all strict. Dell'Acqua loves lingerie fabrics, and feminine touches have always been the hallmarks of his own collections. So, there was lace in the mix, as well as subtle tone-on-tone embroidery at the neckline of a tunic dress. The designer is also a close observer of trends. Cases in point: the opening group of all-white looks, the long lengths, and some great flat sandals in braided leather. All in all, this was a step in the right direction.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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