Alessandro Dell'Acqua is the new man at Brioni. His arrival is a positive development for the brand's women's collection, which has lately been designed by a team whose collections have seemed tricked-out and overworked. Today, Dell'Acqua's minimalist approach produced some classic basics—a black pantsuit with full legs paired with a black cotton voile button-down, for example, or a white linen short-sleeve shirt that matched its cropped and tapered pants. Menswear coats were tossed over the shoulder of a long belted dress and a T-shirt and floor-length sequin skirt combo.

Sharp tailoring was the focus—no surprise, given that Brioni is responsible for some of the finest-made menswear there is. But it wasn't all strict. Dell'Acqua loves lingerie fabrics, and feminine touches have always been the hallmarks of his own collections. So, there was lace in the mix, as well as subtle tone-on-tone embroidery at the neckline of a tunic dress. The designer is also a close observer of trends. Cases in point: the opening group of all-white looks, the long lengths, and some great flat sandals in braided leather. All in all, this was a step in the right direction.