September 17, 2010 London
The Gainsbourg backing track made one think that the girls, with their heavy-rimmed glasses, mussed bobs, and pretty pouts, might be modeled after the singer's onetime girlfriend Jane Birkin—that is, until Anastase's right hand, Valentine Fillol-Cordier, popped up backstage with heavy-rimmed glasses ("Blind since 5," she said cheerily), mussed bob, and pretty pout. Her sweetness infected Anastase in a positive way: drop waists, flower-studded netting, sheerness that was perversely demure. Perhaps it helped that he built his collection on a dotted Swiss fabric called plume matis, which brought delicacy to maîtresse-y pencil skirts at the same time as it underlined the skewed classicism of his vision. (As did the silver brocade pieces, simultaneously ancien régime and rock 'n' roll.) Anastase's world may be unsettling, but it is remarkably consistent—and that's called a signature.