September 30, 2010 Paris
Nicoll has isolated the core of Cerruti as "structured clothes with femininity," and he cut the back out of jackets to make his point, deconstructing and literally opening up the company heritage. It was a bold move that, on the whole, paid off for the designer, more so than the odd silk knit cocoon he laid over a jacket and shorts. Maybe it was the diaphanous nature of that idea that tripped him up. He was much stronger with a geometric pattern inspired by a suit from Hollywood design legend Adrian, which he paired with fashionably Saharan shades of cinnamon and brick for a dressy tailored look. In fact, Nicoll's strongest suit for Cerruti was the dressed-up stuff that took the house's original functional chic to another plane. A jacket beaded in a herringbone pattern, for example, and a tux-cum-jumpsuit (the accompanying jacket took a month to embroider) were glamorously accomplished.
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