September 13, 2010 New York
On the other hand, Rucci has also kicked up the exquisite touches. Take a black skirtsuit spliced, in his signature fashion, with tulle. This time around, he's created a three-dimensionality to the insets by adding horsehair to the seams. Sure, it's the kind of subtle detail that only a sophisticated eye would notice and appreciate, but challenging himself is how this workaholic designer gets his kicks. Rucci did it again and again, with a cement gray chiffon frock ripped and re-stitched to evoke tiny bamboo trees, and jewel-tone taffeta braided onto the tulle bodices of other dresses. A long black hammered silk dress topped by a white bugle-beaded sweater was more minimal, meanwhile, but hardly plain. That word doesn't figure in Rucci's vocabulary.