Hannah MacGibbon still loves beige. That hasn't changed, but there was a welcome lightness in her Spring collection. If last season's Chloé girl was headed off to work in seventies-inflected sportswear, now she looks like she's on her way to dance rehearsal. A typical outfit was a nude leotard with a scooped-out back and a matching below-the-knee pleated skirt, worn with red ballet flats. Another: a bodysuit plus sheer tutulike skirt, with shorts underneath to address the sheerness factor.

That last look in particular had some of the girlishness that used to be this label's defining factor. For the most part, though, MacGibbon was working a minimal look, as evidenced by the collection's coats—unadorned, save for a few shiny buttons, and cut in black, ivory, or red crepe (the collection's one shot of bright color). The tonal way a top matched a pair of track pants, say, or a slim, slightly A-line skirt also contributed to the pared-down vibe. At times, the white shirting fabric used for full-skirted dresses and blouses felt a bit too clinical. Overall, the collection could've used more of the summery heat implied by those breezy skirts.