Costume National Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Costume National

PARIS, October 3, 2010

By Meenal Mistry

Ennio Capasa based his Spring collection on a simple and salable idea: minimal clothes in a series of high-impact colors. The resulting clean-lined chic was a continuation of the very wearable, menswear-inflected looks the designer did for Resort. He opened with neutrals, in a lean and boyish leather suit and a sleeveless dress that had a sophisticated sexiness, with its V-neck and front slit. The collection then cycled through bright turquoise, orange, red, royal blue, and black.

Capasa worked mostly in matte fabrics—silk, leather, and wool—with nary a seam in sight, so that you got a very pure burst of color. But here and there was the subtle shine of organza in a hue close by on the spectrum, pieced into the back of a dress or cut into a blouse tucked into culottes. The color story was completed by contrasting graphic patent sandals and clutches, so there were flashes of orange in a top-to-toe royal blue look. It all added up to lots of great clothes that hit that sweet spot of grown-up yet energetic and, well, cool.

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A.F. Vandevorst	Acne	ADAM
A Détacher	Akris	Alberta Ferretti
Albino	Alexander McQueen	Alexander Wang
Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alexis Mabille	Alice + Olivia
Altuzarra	Andrew Gn	Anna Sui
Ann Demeulemeester	Anne Valérie Hash	Antonio Berardi
Antonio Marras	Aquilano.Rimondi	Araks
Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Bally
Balmain	Banana Republic	Band of Outsiders
Barbara Bui	Barbara Tfank	Basso & Brooke
BCBG Max Azria	Behnaz Sarafpour	Bensoni
Betsey Johnson	Betty Jackson	Bibhu Mohapatra
Bill Blass	Blumarine	Bottega Veneta
Brioni	Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calvin Klein Collection	Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera	Carven	Celine
Cerruti	Chado Ralph Rucci	Chalayan
Chanel	Charles Anastase	Charlotte Ronson
Chloé	Chris Benz	Christian Cota
Christian Dior	Christian Siriano	Christopher Kane
Clements Ribeiro	Collette Dinnigan	Comme des Garçons
Commuun	Costello Tagliapietra	Costume National
Cushnie et Ochs	Custo Barcelona	Cynthia Rowley
Cynthia Steffe

D&G	Damir Doma	Davidelfin
David Koma	Dennis Basso	Derek Lam
Diane von Furstenberg	Diesel Black Gold	DKNY
Dolce & Gabbana	Donna Karan	Doo.Ri
Douglas Hannant	Dries Van Noten	Dsquared²
Duro Olowu

Edun	Elie Saab	Elie Tahari
Elise Øverland	Emanuel Ungaro	Emilio de la Morena
Emilio Pucci	Emporio Armani	Erdem
Erin Fetherston	Etro