Ennio Capasa based his Spring collection on a simple and salable idea: minimal clothes in a series of high-impact colors. The resulting clean-lined chic was a continuation of the very wearable, menswear-inflected looks the designer did for Resort. He opened with neutrals, in a lean and boyish leather suit and a sleeveless dress that had a sophisticated sexiness, with its V-neck and front slit. The collection then cycled through bright turquoise, orange, red, royal blue, and black.

Capasa worked mostly in matte fabrics—silk, leather, and wool—with nary a seam in sight, so that you got a very pure burst of color. But here and there was the subtle shine of organza in a hue close by on the spectrum, pieced into the back of a dress or cut into a blouse tucked into culottes. The color story was completed by contrasting graphic patent sandals and clutches, so there were flashes of orange in a top-to-toe royal blue look. It all added up to lots of great clothes that hit that sweet spot of grown-up yet energetic and, well, cool.