Damir Doma
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 29, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
The name Damir Doma will be familiar to those who pay attention to the menswear beat, where he's been gaining increasing accolades over the past four years. Doma made his womenswear debut here last season with a collection that transposed his signature dark and layered tailoring (he's Croatian-born but Belgian-trained) onto the female form. But the designer was thinking differently for his sophomore outing, which he described in his show notes as the Damir Doma woman "emerging as her own being."True to his word, this outing took a far softer approach. It was also sexy at times, with cropped racerback tanks exposing lots of skin, and silk dresses in long, lean silhouettes that had the subtle oomph of sheer fabrics and gently knotted waists. But the look was chic, not vulgar or, worse, unwearable. Though the show notes mentioned a woman free from "the rib of man," there was still evidence of that original bone of an idea here. But Doma worked to lighten up jackets—both wool and leather—with chiffon lapels that had a lovely flutter as models walked, and elsewhere he layered long blazers with barely there sheer skirts and pants.
There was a serene quality to the proceedings, but it was actually an attempt at spirituality that tripped up this solid step forward—an onslaught of marigolds and saffron yellows, colors that require delicate handling and much smaller doses.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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