Diesel Black Gold
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 13, 2010
By Matthew Schneier
Get this: Diesel had a runway show and not a single blue jean was included."We have a lot of blue denim in Diesel, so it's not necessary to go down this way—everybody knows we have this," Sophia Kokosalaki, Diesel Black Gold's creative director, explained backstage. That's a bold move, but one that made for a compelling show. Kokosalaki subbed dark, dusty colors for the indigo blues, and, for the most part, leather for the denim. (It's central, she says, to the company DNA, and owner Renzo Rosso agrees.) And when Jacquelyn Jablonski tromped out in the first look—a cognac-colored leather jacket with a peplum and a thigh-grazing mini made of sewn-together leaf-like scraps that looked like nothing so much as a cowhide hula skirt—oh, brave new world!
Where that world is remains to be seen. Kokosalaki mentioned the desert inspired the palette she chose (caramels and cognacs, coppery greens and corals, sands and stones). Judging from the ratty bouffants the ladies wore, I'd say a desert island—and not one with a comb. But as styled by Marie-Amélie Sauvé, the collection had an appealing savagery and ingenuity both. The leather pieces emphasized handwork and craftsmanship, whether they were embossed, painted, appliquéd, or tied. (A few too many ties, come to think of it.) "Sometimes it was really intense, really couture style," Kokosalaki said. Well, if you were marooned at sea, you'd certainly have time to ply your craft.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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