It's Donna Karan's 25th year in business. So, an anniversary-year reworking of her Seven Easy Pieces? It must've been tempting. All around her, designers American and otherwise are making bank on the kind of clean, classic sportswear that she and her peers built their brands with. But Karan has clearly moved on. There wasn't a shred of her once-beloved black for Spring, only desert shades of tan, honey, and saffron. She dubbed the collection Raw Romance, and sent the models down a runway coated with a fine layer of sand. Everything had an undone, sensual quality, whether it was a crinkled metallic twill safari jacket worn over a wrinkled bias-cut, below-the-knee slip dress, or a draped silk charmeuse evening gown with fraying edges.

Karan loves to travel now. The truth is, you could pull a lot of these clothes out of the bottom of a crammed backpack and, with their intentionally crumpled artfulness, go straight to dinner. The collection was serene and beautiful, and rather reflective of how much dress codes—not just for business but also for pleasure—have loosened up in the quarter century that Karan has been at the forefront of American design. Was there a lot here that today's working girl could wear to the office? Not necessarily, but there was plenty to dream about.