September 09, 2010
Doo-Ri Chung has made a habit of sending out monochromatic collections. For Spring, she focused primarily on ivories and beiges, with touches of icy mint blue and buttercup. A neutral color palette like that doesn't guarantee runway excitement, but Chung made up for it with eye-catching textures like a webbed jacquard for an asymmetrical one-shoulder dress, a sheer plissé for a trench, and a micro-pleated chiffon for a top that peeked out from beneath a waffled cotton blazer. Draping played a smaller role than usual, but when Chung did revisit the technique that she's best known for, the results were strong: A girl could get a lot of mileage out of her long-sleeved jersey dresses, especially the one with a built-in wrap bustier in suede. David Bowie's "Sound and Vision" was playing when the soundtrack cut out just as a series of more boldly colored party numbers was walking by. It was an interesting little coincidence. The kaleidoscope print, as the designer called it, felt like a bit of an afterthought. Chung is much more comfortable with understatement.