Etro collections are incredibly dense affairs. Pattern, color, silhouette and accessories combine to create an effect that is the very definition of eclecticism. But it is almost astonishingly polite for something that is so pell-mell. For Spring, Veronica Etro matched city smarts with a strong tribal influence, but civilization well and truly trumped barbarism, with ethnic patterns cut into tidy printed separates, shifts or shirtdresses, and cropped, high-waisted pants to temper the flighty scarf dresses.

Veronica added geometrics to Etro's more traditional paisleys and florals, but, intriguingly, given the label's print heritage, what looked freshest here were the solid-colored, one-shouldered pieces, floor-length or knee-length with one huge puff sleeve. They were a strong, simple statement that offered a skewed take on the season's fascination with volume.