Felipe Oliveira Baptista
September 29, 2010 Paris
Appropriately, Baptista's ideas were all about bodies in motion. He seemed to have stripped away some of his conceptual tendencies, for a clean and punchy look that toed the sexy-sporty line. He began with patch-pocket vests and leggings with panels of perforated leather before segueing into more experimental looks with streamlined cutouts and sheer overlays.
Results were mixed. A strange peplum belt-cum-miniskirt strapped over a jacket and bodysuit didn't make sense. But then came a complex look that layered a boxy cutout cropped top with a lightly flared and piped skirt over a tube dress; nutty as it sounds, it played quite coherently in its palette of camel, black, and white. The outfits in the second half of the show also required case-by-case judgment, with their trompe l'oeil tuxedo motifs and tailored sherbet-colored organzas. Nevertheless, when Oliveira hit his mark, there was a certain freshly considered, youthful elegance that clued you in to the potential his new bosses have clearly seen.