It's not hard to find beauty in Paris, and the beauty that caught Frank Tell's eye was the moss that covers the walls of the Musée du quai Branly. The yarns he used in the exquisite hand-knits that resulted from this infatuation contained grass, paper, and bamboo. ("There's a sense of the clothes being alive," he said, and it wasn't entirely a figure of speech.) The knits were the "ooh" and "aah" pieces here, but all 15 of the looks had an intriguing animate quality that fell somewhere between raw and refined.

Stretch-suede leggings in mint and black made a solid foundation for the ethereal sweaters. More everyday but still chic were the ankle-skimming gray silk trousers that looked like wool but were actually supremely light; paired with a fitted silk-tweed jacket, they made for a modern, elegant suit. Styled with jewelry from Pamela Love and space-age wedges from Raphael Young, Tell's collection had depth, as well as a proper dose of cool.