Giles
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 20, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Giles Deacon's latest show suggested he was well ahead of the forties/seventies curve that is turning everyone else's crank this season. He was already fifties/eighties. "No, no," he corrected backstage, "It's nineties—the color and fun and playfulness of the Milk Bar." He was referring to the unprepossessing London nightlife institution where you would once have seen Björk hopping about, Katie Grand propped up at the bar knitting, and Jon Pleased Wimmin deejaying (and what happened to him?).Giles' shtick is more overtly self-referential than most. His latest invitation duplicated his trademark eyewear. He had personal icon Veruschka close his show. And the Milk Bar big-up was his latest dip into styles he has known and loved. On the runway, it translated as an intense farrago of psycho color, Pac-Man pattern, and extreme silhouette. The highest compliment you could pay the whole thing was that it was all in exquisitely bad taste.
The designer already proved his passion for Christina Hendricks with his Resort collection. With this outing, you have to imagine her singular shape overlaid with emblems of rave and sprayed with glitter or swagged with pearls. Shazam! Sid Bryan's knits were as luridly irresistible as his work for his own label Sibling. A hibiscus print said summer in a twisted way (Giles picked up that idea on a visit to Kew Gardens with his mum). And the lady looks that are de rigueur for Spring 2011 were here unhinged by a print that looked like naughty capsules. That normal/nuts dichotomy is a Giles signature, but he's never scrawled it quite as successfully as he did today.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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