If Hanii Y
's Resort collection was nostalgic—spurred on by a vision of Granville, the French seaside town where Christian Dior was born—the label's Spring outing sought to evoke a slightly different mood: déjà vu. This time, it was back to the past with a twist. The maritime palette, feminine shapes, and ladylike flourishes returned, but with a graphic, poppy punch—traces of Japanese artist Tokujin Yoshioka, whose work, according to the Hanii Y design team, evokes the union of conscious and unconscious. It made for a collection that whizzed this way and that, with pretty, color-blocked dresses and trenches on the left; soft watercolor prints in the middle; and frilly, slightly over-detailed jackets and capes on the right. But while the something-for-everyone mentality might be a liability on the designer floor, it's more of a strength at the brand's contemporary price point. And if the collection didn't entirely cohere, well, neither does your unconscious.