October 05, 2010 Paris
The collection also made full use of the house's horsey heritage, starting with the showbizzy opener of a dressage corps going through its paces under a mass of chandeliers. Then Karlie Kloss, every designer's favorite equestrienne, stalked out in second-skin black leather, brandishing a riding crop. Her lean, sexy, and ever-so-fetishistic look set the tone for the whole show. Where there was volume, as in a white organza coat trailing away in scarf points, or a flowing gown in ombré chiffon, or the capes of mousseline that swathed the finale, it merely emphasized the intense body-consciousness of the rest. Which meant the key piece was a leather basque, highlighting the waist, attenuating the hard, precise silhouette.
Gaultier is a master tailor, and here he maximized his talent to create an austere but sensuous glamour. His singular twist was to build interest into the back of a garment, baring skin with jackets and tops that crisscrossed like wings. If they might be classified as a fashion bridge too far—along with the body harnesses, the jodhpur shorts, and those basques—there was temptation aplenty elsewhere. See the ultra-high-waisted pants, chic leather-fronted cardigans, gorgeous suede jackets, and leather skirts, not to mention some splendidly sleek accessories that were worthy additions to the classic Hermès carryalls.