Hervé Léger by Max Azria
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Anyone who attended Max and Lubov Azria's two other shows—Max Azria and BCBG Max Azria—earlier this week must have been grateful today that the designing couple didn't try for a stripped-down, minimalist trifecta with Hervé Léger. (That stuff is pretty, but it has its limits.)Instead, the Azrias poured the cream and pink world of lingerie, lace, and corseting into the strict framework of their bandage dress. The vision had strains of a modern-day Marie Antoinette, the reference drummed into your head by Siouxsie and the Banshees' "Hong Kong Garden" from Sofia Coppola's film repeating on the soundtrack. It was also overt on the runway: There were abbreviated bustle dresses with modern panniers, and the last grouping featured ribbon-woven corsets—new ground for this label.
The bondage nature of the bandage dress is already a naughty enough foil to the froth of the Queen of Fashion, but that element was furthered in lasered leather and printed rubber (both with lace motifs) and tiny grommets that traced the seaming on body-hugging shifts. It's not easy to maintain a sense of newness in a label with such strict parameters, but the Azrias managed it nicely with this collection.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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