Hannah Marshall
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 17, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Given the fact that Hannah Marshall called her new collection Strict Machine, it seemed fair to expect more of the sculpted monochrome minimalism with which she's carved her niche as London's Lang/Sander disciple. The Rankin film that introduced her show promised something different, though: The short clip had the stoned eroticism of a Bill Henson photograph, more sensuous than strict. Wouldn't it have been a treat if Marshall had incorporated a little more of the former into her clothes? As it was, she imagined the show as a transformation from a 2-D opener to a 4-D climax, and if that reads as hard to grasp (trust us, it was even more opaque in the show manifesto, which was highfalutin in the extreme), it wasn't at all clear on the catwalk, either.In fact, the fewer the dimensions, the more pleasing the clothes, as in the opening passage of strictly shaped pants and skirts paired with sheer black pieces. By show's end, Marshall was transmogrifying the silhouette with what looked like handfuls of book pages attached to shoulders and hips (she was inspired by the artist Brian Dettmer, who "autopsies" books). It was an earnestly experimental effort to add volume to the collection's fierce linearity, and it was brave of her to resist any suggestion of softness. But it couldn't help but look contrived next to the elegant simplicity of a double-collared shirtdress and a short-sleeved suede jacket.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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