Iceberg
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 27, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Paolo Gerani and his new design team have traded in Hitchcock blondes for muses a little closer to home—Lauren Hutton, Faye Dunaway, and Farrah Fawcett, all of whom starred in the ad campaigns Oliviero Toscani lensed for Iceberg in the late seventies. That meant there was a pretty big disconnect between last season and this one, but it landed the label smack-dab in the middle of things in Milan, which is never a bad place to be.What was good: the fact that Gerani and company's take on fashion's favorite decade was more impressionistic than literal. Oversize men's blazers with pushed-up sleeves, a sea blue cotton jumpsuit with embroidered straps, silk button-downs tucked into A-line skirts—we've seen enough of this sort of thing lately for it to have shed its retro associations. But with so many labels all over the price spectrum doing the seventies, which elements provided a compelling reason for shoppers to seek out Iceberg next spring? Not the beaded and feathered macramé tanks and scarf tops. Simpler was better here, and there was nothing simpler or better in this collection than a faded denim elastic-waist dress.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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