Issa
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 21, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
With all respect to Diana Vreeland, pink is not the navy blue of India. A whole spectrum of saturated hues—fuchsia, turquoise, royal blue, emerald green, safety orange—hold near-equal status. For her Spring collection, Daniella Issa Helayel joined the crowded ranks of designers who've been inspired by the mythic colors of the subcontinent, using almost all of the above.This label built its buzz on prints, but there were few of those here. Instead, Helayel chose to build the collection, called Indian Summer, on solid silks in vaguely sari-inspired cocktail frocks and gowns. "You can't see the details if you have too much print," she explained backstage. Said details encompassed two kinds of drapes: either tightly gathered pleats that sometimes wrapped corsetlike around the waist, or a fluid variety that was tucked here and there to create various silhouettes—strapless, asymmetrical, halter, short, long.
Helayel sought to underline her theme with turbans, jeweled sandals, and chandelier earrings, but after a few looks, the idea became repetitive. Dresses in white broderie anglaise and colored lace were a more welcome sight. Helayel's not John Galliano, and has no pretensions to such exotic realizations. But while she delivered her quotient of pretty, easy-to-wear dresses for the front-row crew of Lily Allen, Poppy Delevingne, and Amber Rose, the show didn't quite have the punch you'd expect, given its color scheme.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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