Jaeger London
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 21, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Last season, Jaeger London seemed to hit its mark with cleanly cut and traditionally oriented sportswear. And when the first look—a pristine white coat, edged in black along one lapel—appeared at today's show, it suggested that there would be a continuation of that winning strategy. But it turned out design director Stuart Stockdale had other ideas, namely a desire to celebrate modern British artists.That raised an issue: When it comes to clothing, particularly items meant to be worn and not merely photographed, art and fashion are frenemies, at best. Stockdale borrowed a punchy graphic sensibility from abstract artist Robyn Denny, and from the work of sculptor Rachel Whiteread he extrapolated ideas about negative space. It was the latter that tripped up the proceedings, inspiring awkward experiments with proportion, asymmetry, and sheer fabrics.
There were quite a few great sporty-smart pieces—a bell-sleeved trench with buttoned-back lapels, little pleated shorts in cotton or suede (especially good were a pair topped by a skinny, stripey knit), and fresh-looking macramé knits—but a real message never seemed to crystallize. We'd be the last to say fashion isn't an art, but sometimes these bedfellows should stick to their own sides.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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