Speaking via phone the day before showing his collection, Jason Wu hinted that "Spring is more dangerous." That was a surprising statement, and perhaps one that shouldn't be taken literally from a designer whose trump card is his retail savvy; on a selling trip to Paris in July, he added 30 new stores to a roster that already boasted 120—not a bad tally at all for a brand that's just four years old. Equally impressive: Today's show was the official launch of his full range of accessories—shoes, bags, and optical.

Continuing the push into tailoring that he began for Fall, Wu opened the show with a sleeveless bow-front top tucked into a pair of high-waisted pants. Smartly cut lean trousers made appearances in several different colors and were paired with ladylike blouses or neat striped knits. Jackets, too, were elongated, a couple just substantial enough to function as dresses. His black anorak looked like satin, but was actually techno twill. You could toss it over an evening gown and not worry if you found yourself in a downpour.

The danger, and we're speaking relatively here, came in the form of amped-up colors and mixed prints inspired by the work of the Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes, plus a generous helping of sex appeal. The retailers who've gone mad for blouses will have to come up with some solutions for all the see-through ones the designer showed. But all in all, this was a focused collection that will continue to add extra zeroes to Wu's bottom line.