Jeremy Laing
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 16, 2010
By Alison Baenen
Every morning, Jeremy Laing wakes to flags waving at him from the office building across the street, and the sight of so much fluttering fabric sparked Spring's design process. Laing isn't much for flutter, per se; he prefers sharp lines, geometric figures, and a stark palette, and this collection combined an air of flaglike loftiness with his signature angularity. Digital prints have been a focus for the past few seasons, but there were no prints today, save for one of a rose. (The image had a sentimental pull: It was based on a flower Laing laid on his grandmother's coffin earlier this year.) In lieu of edgy graphics, he created interest through texture and draping. Many of the pieces could not only be worn in multiple ways but would look quite different depending on the wearer. It was an accomplished, sexy outing. The prints weren't missed.Chain-link linen lace could have been mistaken for twisted copper, but it crinkled in your hand. A long skirt in the stuff was layered over a sleek bodysuit for a refreshing take on the sheer trend, and a finer version in black net was pieced alongside fluid satin in body-clinging, paneled dresses. A few dresses and skirts doubled back on themselves at the hem—one long rectangle of fabric tunneling back up to the shoulder. It could have been gimmicky, but it was subtly done. Another possible sticking point were the "trapped" dresses, as Laing named them in the liner notes. Shimmering, one-sleeved goddess dresses were contained below the waist by separate, small leather minis—really too small to be skirts in their own right. The curvier among us might not want to chance it, but it worked on the runway: underwear-as-outerwear meets the layering trend. A viscose jersey dress in black with one long, draped arm and a slit up the side didn't have a single extra, but it swooped and clung in all the right places.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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