Spring marked a return to the quintessential Jill Stuart girl, after a few seasons that explored affectedly tougher territory. Here was the whimsical romance we've come to expect over the years, and plenty of it. There were cascades of ruffles, hefty helpings of pleats, and lace applied every which way. A trapeze dress worn by Lindsey Wixson came with a charming silhouette print and ruffled collar; a sheer, striped frock with voluminous petticoats swished with each step.

Beyond the flounces, there was a scattering of structured looks. A nipped-in silk tuxedo and a navy cape with exaggerated shoulders did look sleek and modern—but also, unfortunately, out of place. Stuart kept pace with the trends by lowering hemlines and sticking with neutrals (champagne, blush, ivory, and ebony). That unvarying color palette was what ultimately bonded together this rather sprawling collection. It was tried-and-true Stuart, and that is, after all, what keeps front-row flashbulb magnets like Kim Kardashian and Jessica Szohr coming back for more.