Karen Walker
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Maya Singer
Karen Walker is one of several designers feeling the sixties this season, but she's probably the only one reinterpreting the decade via clothespin prints and parkas made out of Tyvek. And that's the great thing about her: Even when she's mining the conventional, she never forgets to be unpredictable.That was about the situation for Spring, as Walker put her typically youthful spin on sixties silhouettes such as shifts, Beach Boys button-fronts, and clam diggers. Her inspiration was witty: the work of the photographer William Eggleston, from whom she gleaned a Kodachrome palette, a density of print, and a general strategy of elevating the humble. This was true not just with the clothespins and the Tyvek, but with the Perspex jewelry and the prints inspired by curtain fabric—as well as with ruffled clutches made from parka nylon, in lawn green, raincoat yellow, and construction-site orange. The collection's real strength, however, was its outerwear and accessories, in particular those ruffled bags and the high-heel, clog-style, and platform loafers. The loafers were done in collaboration with Australia-based company Beau Coops; the platforms represent her latest outing with Pointer.
Walker has always been big on print, and this season, the trend of print-on-print has caught up with her. Individually, there were a lot of winning pieces, but taken all together it was often a bit much. More problematically, some of her ensembles looked kind of pajama-y. (Come to think of it, we strongly encourage Walker to get into the pajama game.)
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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