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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Backstage before his show, Stuart Vevers gamely supplied his buzzwords for the season: joyful, light, colorful. Spring, he explained, began with the palette, one with bright candy tones that couldn't be further from his somber neutrals last season. A reaction to Fall's beige-out? "Yes, we do all feel it as designers," Vevers said. "And the time is just right for it. It's Spring." He added that the brighter pieces the house did for his pre-collection were selling like gangbusters.You can't really find fault with any of the above reasoning, but on the runway, the look seemed to have overdosed on optimism, skewing very young. This particular brand of youth was a girlish and cheeky-cute sensibility that reminded more than a few present of Miu Miu. There were little color-blocked thigh-high shifts, leather T-shirts dotted with tiny laser-cut flower appliqués, and kitten-heeled pumps covered with more of those floral-shaped leather bits. Most of the high-ponytailed models wore either leather headbands with flat bows or elastics decorated with big leather cubes. Ladylike, structured handbags had flashes of neon trim.
There were grown-up moments to be picked out, like a grass green sweater tucked into an "oro" suede A-line skirt, or a ponyskin coat in a dark leopard print, but it wasn't easy to fully extricate them from the top-to-toe vibe. And the butterfly scarf print—inspired by the house's Madrid archives—could easily go either woman or girl. But on the whole? While this about-face certainly made a strong (and yes, fun) visual statement, the new direction felt jarring.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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